Cyrus Horse Camp, that is, another of Oregon's priceless horse camps, =
> nestled in the Crooked River National Grasslands.
>
> That name may evoke a picture of rolling, pristine meadows, with a lazy, =
> winding river passing through. Nothing could be farther from the truth. =
> The National Grasslands is a harsh, volcanic plain, with ragged, =
> juniper studded buttes rising up over sagebrush covered prairies. With =
> the Ochocos rearing up to the east, and the Cascades walling off the =
> west, Cyrus Horse Camp lies nestled at the foot of a butte, occupying =
> the site of an old homestead. Parklike in appearance, it is shaded with =
> non-native blacklocust trees, planted by pioneer hands. It is the sort =
> of place in which a newcomer takes instant ownership.
> From where we camp, we can look down the sweeping plain, across tiny
Haystack =
> Reservoir, and up into the Cascades. The day is mild, but there is a =
> bitter wind blowing off those snowfields and glaciers.
> Not knowing the area, we consult our map and decide to be =
> not-too-adventurous, sticking to the main gravel road that leads to =
> Haystack Reservoir. We have no feel for mileages.
>
> Gizmo is easy to hitch in this new place, and full of life and =
> enthusiasm as we set off. We learned immediately that one skill a horse =
> must have to drive here is indifference to cattle! They are everywhere, =
> including range bulls!! Giz is heads up, but we drive right through =
> them. The calves are curious, but the mamas are fairly indifferent. =20
>
> The main gravel road was a good drive, wasn't really something you trailer
2-1/2 hours to drive your horse on! We enjoyed the views as Gizmo reeled
off the miles, but wondered =
> what else the area had to offer. Arriving at the reservoir, we realized =
> it was not horse friendly, just a place for fishermen and waterskiers, =
> so we made our loop and headed back out onto the main road, passing our =
> turnoff and exploring further. The drive back to camp was cold, and I
was pretty glad =
> when it was over!
>
> Sunday morning I rise at the thinnest suggestion of daylight. The near =
> full moon is setting over the Cascades, and the morning star is just =
> rising over the Ochocos. It is still, perfect. Ice on the waterbucket, =
> but the day will be warm.
On the suggestion of a fellow camper to go east, into the buttes, we chart
what appears to be a loop on the map, load up and set off. =20
>
> I can't believe the strength and endurance Gizmo has this year! He did =
> about 12 miles the day before, at a very brisk clip, with a heavily =
> loaded vehicle, and he showed no sign of slowing down. All the =
> winter/spring work is paying off! Especially when we realize that going =
> "into" the buttes means going UP them! We pass through a small herd of =
> cattle, with a great bruiser of a bull lounging not five feet off the =
> road, under a juniper. "Excuse us Sir, just passing through!" He =
> barely bats an eyelash! :o) =20
>
> This track we are on is a beauty, more to our liking, and view after =
> view unfolds as we rise up and over the landscape. But soon, we find =
> ourselves on a long ascent. The scenery has changed, from scrubby =
> juniper to great tall ones, and there is a thin thread of a stream, with =
> lush grasses growing in this arid place. The stark contrast makes this =
> tiny rivulet one of the most beautiful little water features one could =
> imagine! =20
>
> Up and up we climb; Gizmo is walking, obviously not straining, just =
> marching along as we climb and climb and climb up through this canyon. =
> Today our weather is pristine; warm and clear, with scarcely a breath of =
> wind. I keep thinking we will top out soon, but we continue up, along =
> the flank of Grey Butte, stopping periodically to open gates at cattle =
> guards. We are surprised to see that there are a fair number of =
> springs, which have been developed for the cattle, and periodically, we =
> pass yet more abandoned homesteads, wondering what could have possessed =
> those pioneers, after such a gruelling passage, to stop here in this =
> desolate wilderness, to try to make a life. =20
>
> Finally, our long, uphill walk tops out, at another homestead site, and =
> a beautiful old pioneer orchard. Grey Butte rises up above us, and =
> beautiful, ragged, rocky Pine Ridge rears up before us. For a short =
> time, we have "trot-able" track, but soon we find ourselves on a steep =
> descent into a deep ravine known as "Skull Hollow". Our camp neighbor =
> later tells us that a pioneer massacre occurred in this ravine, and the =
> victims were not found for 17 years. Artifacts were still being =
> recovered in the 1950s. =20
>
> I am so thankful for my new brakes! Between the recently installed =
> sliding seats on the cart, and the brakes, I am able to keep Gizmo just =
> barely in breeching, and on all but the worst declivities, can even keep =
> the weight of the shafts off his back, through careful adjustment of the =
> balance. Knowing we have relieved Gizmo of a great deal of work really =
> clears my mind to marvel at this wondrous wilderness all around me! A =
> juniper 20 feet tall may be 200 years old. The junipers in this ravine =
> are towering over our heads. Pine Ridge rears sharply up to our left, =
> Grey Butte to our right. Along the side of the track this delicate =
> strip of green rolls downhill, with occasional evidence of the fragile =
> watercourse that feeds it. It is lunchtime, and we are rewarded with a =
> beautiful little site where a spring has been developed, and the =
> junipers offer welcome shade. Gizmo is tied with neckrope and nosebag =
> to a tree, after slaking his thirst (he is not hot), and we enjoy a bit =
> of lunch, and a little exploring. (I have to brag - I am using my =
> Stockman's bridle, have removed the bit to use the halter function to =
> tie Giz to the tree. Now I am worried that he will rub the winkers and =
> damage them; voila! 20 seconds later the winkers are popped off and Giz =
> is relaxing in a regular halter. I love it!)
>
> We are rested, stretched, watered and fed; it's time to continue on. =
> Giz is hitched and we are away, still travelling down into this narrow =
> ravine. When will it bottom out! Through more gates at cattle guards, =
> more springs and water troughs - we are amazed! And more cattle! =
> Everywhere! Meadowlarks and bluebirds, exquisite little mounds of =
> purple and yellow wildflowers, friendly weekenders, we even met, of all =
> things, a driving acquaintance (mounted)! At long last the ground is =
> levelling out and a plain stretches before us. We can see the cars on =
> the highway in the distance, and we should be swinging left soon, around =
> Pine Ridge, to make our dash for home.=20
>
> But what's this! We come to the highway, but no track! The map has =
> lied! There is no continuing track around the ridge after all! I am =
> thoroughly confused, I am sure I was following the map correctly, but no =
> joy. We talk to some riders - no there is no track alongside the =
> highway, just a narrow riding trail. This means, our only way back to =
> camp is back up that steep ravine! And what about Gizmo, how is he =
> going? Well he has enough starch left to misbehave for the amusement of =
> the other horses (and my embarrassment), so I reckon he's got enough to =
> assault the ravine! =20
>
> On our way back, we doublecheck the landmarks; yep we are exactly where =
> we think we are, with the road numbers matching the map. The map is =
> incorrect. I am hugely disappointed, but need to concentrate on getting =
> us back up the hill.
>
> I am just astonished at little Gizmo. On all but the very steepest =
> going, he just set a determined march that seemed virtually effortless. =
> There was no straining into the collar, he just set it in low and =
> marched up that grade with a will. Very occasionally you could see he =
> was working a little harder, but still it was just something to think of =
> the strength he possesses, in such a small package. All his gear is =
> optimal now, I think; this wonderful, wide draft wool-faced collar, =
> wide, sliding backband saddle, the axle draft, the brakes, sliding =
> seats, pulley breeching, and careful attention to balance. This rig is =
> turned out for rough travel, the horse is fit, and all the time, effort, =
> and work are all galvanizing in this one drive. It is not the longest =
> we have done, but I am sure, by far, the most difficult. =20
>
> We take breaks along the march, and Gizmo is grateful that we have =
> carried water. He drinks greedily at every chance. It is mild, but =
> very dry. Oh, I am thinking, this is gonna be one tuckered little horse =
> when we get to the top of this grade! This part of the drive is more =
> concentrating on Gizmo's wellbeing than on enjoying the scenery. =20
>
> FINALLY we top out at the orchard. We can see the plains sweeping away =
> from us to the west, and the Cascades rippling along in the haze. "Your =
> pace, Gizmo"...he is allowed now to take his own stride. He is so self =
> preserved, I know that he will take care of himself. I expect a doggy =
> walk back to camp, but this boy has his second wind, and for the brief =
> mild terrain, he has turned up the wick and is rolling along at a trot =
> about a third again faster than what he usually does at home! :o) But =
> soon, we have hit that long descent on the other side, and we ease back =
> again, into a measured walk. Down on the plains again, Giz is =
> refreshed, he knows he is camp bound and he treats us to a brisk trot, =
> sometimes a canter when he meets a hill. He seems unstoppable! =
> Scattering herds of cattle, just rolling along through the desert and =
> the warm, dry air. It's just unbelievable, what a day this has been! I =
> have to ask him repeatedly to walk the last mile, he is so chipper and =
> still ready to go! But as we roll into camp, he is more than happy to =
> stand for unhitching and a good sponging off before returning to his =
> corral to rest up and feed before the trip home.
>
> I am stiff and sore (nursing a bum back anyway), and so grateful to get =
> out and stretch! :o) We have been over five hours, covering 13 =
> gruelling miles. Our map, inaccurate as it is, promises many more =
> challenging drives. This place will be magnificent for spring and fall =
> drives; too hot and dry in summer, and inaccessible in winter. As we =
> pull out and head for home, we know we have experienced something truly =
> special, and I silently thank those volunteer hands, and the public =
> employees, who have made this place for us. We will return.